Going to the Bears

It was Sunday, August 13, 2006. I went to dinner with a friend at Outback. While we were waiting to be seated, I picked up a section of the Anchorage Daily News. It was all about McNeil River bear viewing. It was that easy; I was hooked. I knew that it was something I would do while I was in Alaska.

Why would one apply for a lottery permit to spend four/five days in remote Alaska watching bears? Why wouldn’t one? I didn’t apply in 2007 because the permit-applying-window was before I had been a resident for a full year. If I won, I’d have to pay out-of-state ($350) as opposed to in-state ($150) fee for the permit. The unusual beginning of my story is that I got the permit the first year I applied! Some people apply for ten years before a permit is issued.

Packed everything I’d need for five days into one duffle bag and one back pack; that was a minor miracle. We’re talking tent, tarp, sleeping bag & pad, clothes, towel & toiletries, flashlight, insect repellent, sunscreen, food, eating utensils, cooking utensils, water filtration, chest waders with wader boots, and rain gear. And of course camera, camcorder and extra batteries. There was no electricity in camp. But remember, it doesn’t get dark this time of year either.

Met Kennan & Karen and their good friend Walter (pack mule for this trip) in Homer at Beluga Lake Float Plane Service. They were carrying close to 500 pounds of equipment and were delighted that I had packed so lightly(!) And so the adventure began in a de Havilland Beaver flying 100 miles southwest of Homer to the western shore of the Cook Inlet.

Arrived to have camp manager, Doug, and two guides, Tom & Ian help settle us in to the routines of camp. Ten permit holders are in camp at any given time. The rest of our team included Didier & Joe, Allison & Rich, Emily, and Tony. Did I say that half of the group were professional wildlife photographers? Was a little intimidated at first but then decided that when they publish the photos or film, I’ll let you know and we’ll say, “and Mary was standing right here!”

We’d start the day in the cook’s cabin (where all food and toiletries were kept) fixing breakfast and packing a lunch. By ten, weather permitting, we were in gear and ready to leave camp. Hiked about two miles through muddy slush, sedge grass and creek bed. Would set up viewing bunched together. The bears are used to thirty years of human habituation. That means that they are not too disturbed to see clumps of people in predictable patterns of movement and hanging out in the same places. So, they just go about being bears. We’d sit and watch and eat and talk and sit and watch for hours. Occasionally we’d pack up and move. And sit and watch and eat and talk and sit and watch (do you see a pattern developing?) Most of the time the bears were several hundred yards away. But we were in their space and every once in a while they’d be surprised by us. Check us out. And continue on their way. At least a half a dozen times they were less than 20 feet away.

On the last day I was sitting on the side of the creek and one cub got a little curious. Started toward me at a fairly brisk clip. I was watching his momma. She didn’t seem too bothered, so I didn’t get too bothered. Guide stepped between us and he stopped about five feet away. Was never scared, never even got an adrenaline rush. It just all felt natural. We’d trek back to camp some time between six and eight. Fix dinner, talk about our day then retire to our tents.

One day was sunny and my nose got sunburned. But, of course, this is Alaska. So we also had some spitting, cool, rainy days. Even one downright blustery cold day. Layers and rain gear are your friend. And so was the guide who stoked the sauna and had it ready when we returned to camp. Of course there are pictures (view as slideshow) and even a short video. Maybe those will give you a tiny glimpse into this cool adventure.

What did I learn sitting and watching those bears for hours? Come now…you know me well enough to know I had to learn something.

I guess I realized as I near the mid-century mark, I’m pretty comfortable in my skin. More so than I’ve ever been. These bears seem pretty comfortable being bears and are quite clear about what they are willing to fight for (young ones and space) and what they’ll just let be (almost everything else). Seems like a good plan to me.

The adventure continues…