Ah, Costa Rica

Summer in a nutshell: we discovered that we don’t really care to be full-time rvers. We didn’t find either a house or property to buy. We DID catch fish. We DID share Alaska with some friends. We DID get our caribou. And then we came back south early.

Decided to try & take our Costa Rican 10th anniversary trip that we had to cancel March 2020. Was fairly easy to re-book as most of the “planning” work was already done. We flew out of ATL the morning of Monday, September 13. Flew into SJO, rented a car and started driving east. Air B&B in Cariari. Our host, Miriam, is an elementary teacher three years away from retirement but still full of passion and joy for her children. Continued east on Tuesday toward La Pavona where we caught a boat taxi to Tortuguero.

In Tortuguero we stayed in Casa Marbella on the river. The #1 goal was to see nesting sea turtles...and. we. did! We went on a night tour with a conservationist group. Can’t begin to convey how cool it was to watch 3.5-4 foot in diameter green sea turtles in six foot holes they had dug drop a nest full of eggs, cover them, then return to the sea. Ancient rhythms are peaceful and comforting in this throwaway, transient world we inhabit. No pictures allowed so will just have to savor that memory in our mind’s eye. On the way back to the hotel from the beach we crossed a trail of leaf-cutter ants. Didn’t get in bed until after midnight.

Awakened at 5 a.m. on Wednesday by a high school band (of 4 drummers) loudly celebrating Costa Rica’s Independence Day! They made their way through town then returned at 5:20 for a finale. We yawned, stretched  and got some tea as as we prepped for a 6 a.m. canal tour in Parque Nacional Tortuguero. Saw lots of birds, lizards, iguanas, caimans, a blue morpho butterfly, and lush jungle fauna. Saw a couple of monkeys shaking the tree tops but not close enough to get a picture.

Boat taxi back to La Pavona then drove all day west. It is rainy season in western Costa Rica. The learning lesson from Wednesday was: get where you are going by 4 because the skies just might open in a deluge sort of way. We did not. And then got lost looking for a remote ecolodge I’d booked. We’ve been winging it without internet & cellular (wanted to disconnect). Anyway, don’t tell me there are no angels among us. We were an hour away from remote ecolodge (yes, we went the opposite direction...some know I am directionally challenged). Stopped at a gas station. Spoke with a young man who 1)spoke English, 2)once worked for a car rental company and had delivered a car to said ecolodge (ONCE), 3)drew us a DETAILED map with landmarks but no street names (ie after about 5 mins look for road on left that has a bar on each corner) that directed us PERFECTLY an hour, freaking away in the heaviest downpour we’ve ever experienced! Got to the ecolodge about 8. Proprietor chided us...which we were not exactly in the mood for...so we slept quickly and got back on the road.

Thursday’s grand adventure was Mystico Hanging Bridge Trail near Parque Nacional Volcan Arenal. I have an unnatural fear of suspension bridges. They petrify me. Yes, I’ve jumped out of an airplane. See “unnatural.” But I decided that I wanted to face this fear. Talked with my therapist. Did a couple of hypnotherapy sessions, and I’m proud to report that I traipsed across 10 high canopy hanging bridges with little to no anxiety. It. Was. GREAT! The 2 mile trail wound through a rain forest—just lovely.

Stopped near Lake Arenal before 4. Relaxed evening at Ceibo Tree Lodge; our room 50 yards from a 500 year old Ceibo tree. We were told that  it was the tree in the movie AVATAR. Sat on the veranda and enjoyed the view of the lake as well as all the flowers and birds.

Early start on Friday was wasted as the Garmin led us literally on a cow trail. We were definitely off the beaten path. Finally made it to our destination—Parque Nacional Volcan Tenorio. Hiked to Rio Celeste Waterfall and then to Azure Lagoon—both notable for their turquoise color. The Garmin delay allowed us the opportunity to hike the mid portion in a downpour. Fortunately we had our rain jackets in our packs so we soldiered on. Stopped for lunch, reviewed the schedule and regrouped. Original plan was to head south to Santa Elana then Saturday head to the southern tip via the coast. Ixnayed Elana & headed west to the coast...as did half the country it seemed. The major highway 1 was literally under construction the entire time we were on it. Slow going to Jaco. Was 6 before we started looking for something on the beach. Had to “settle” for a resort. Nice.

We’re thinking that we FINALLY were relaxing into the rhythms of Costa Rica. Delicious ‘typical’ CR breakfast & walk on the beach. The rest of our schedule was unhurried. Good thing—walked out to a flat tire! Greg changed it then we drove 5 minutes to Avis...which was pretty amazing as they only have offices in 7 towns across the entire country. Tire repaired and back on the road in 30 minutes.

We are pretty seasoned travelers but there have been several times during this trip we have felt like amateurs. We didn’t make backup copies of reservations and locations. We didn’t go to AAA for maps. One night’s lodging was erroneously booked for the wrong night. We forgot our deck of cards. We didn’t read up on all the “tips” for travelers. Granted, we planned most of the trip over a year ago and when we decided to rebook we were with limited internet. So, we’re allowing some grace. But Saturday we did something just stupid. We were headed into a national park and overpaid for a private tour that really didn’t give us the experience we were after. Chided ourselves then headed to our southern most point—a couple of days at a resort so that Greg could go out fishing. Only he forgot to tell me that he didn’t really want to go fishing on this trip. Since there was NOTHING else to do in Golfito, we decided to cancel second night and go back to the park we missed...and stay another night at the resort in Jaco!

Got upgraded to beach facing (as opposed to mountain facing) room because we were returning guests within the week. I was more excited about the first bathtub I’ve had on the trip! Especially after we hiked 5 miles in the (HOT) jungle. Saw lots of capuchin monkeys—they’re the small white-faced ones. More iguanas. Paid a guide to find us a sloth; he found us two sleeping and one active! Greg—who hates to swim because most water is too cold—waded out into the ocean and was pleased to report it was warm. As we were headed out of the park we heard howler monkeys and located a half dozen. We were soooo glad we went back Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio.

Leisurely Monday morning breakfast, walk on the beach, and dip in the cool pool (he loves me so much) before heading back toward San Jose. Checked into our inn by noon and just rested. Greg read while I ogled over the grounds which were designed by an avid gardener/botanist to attract birds & butterflies. In my happy place.

Breakfasts may be my favorite meal(s) we’ve eaten here. Tuesday was another traditional spread—this time wrapped in a banana leaf! Ate, packed up and headed to the capital. Checked into our room then went to the airport to get our COVID tests. Must have a negative one within 72 hrs to get back in the US. San Jose is loud and dirty and crowded—but you know we’re not much of city people. Enjoyed the Museum of Pre-Colombian Gold—cool subterranean space with simple, exquisite displays. Walked by the National Theater, which was funded by a tax on coffee in the late 1800s. Looked for, then was disappointed with the Central Market. Pretty much done. Last stop an art gallery to find a picture for our “travels” wall. A turtle it is.

Random observations: many scooters & bicycles, secondary roads with holes the size of industrial tires, colorfully painted concrete/adobe houses, ditches you don’t want to fall into, banana plantations, papaya and coconut groves for miles, iron painted fences around homes & businesses, lush greenery, one-lane bridges, random speed bumps (reductors), sprawling rancheros, no one pulls over for ambulances, hand washing stations outside most restaurants and hotels, only large hotels have a.c., everyone passes on double yellow lines, the humidity feels like it adds at least ten degrees. It is the rainy season and Greg was sure that might be miserable. The reality was the sky only opened on one of our hikes, and then we enjoyed a storm most nights.

This trip gave us some time away as a couple truly away from it all. We rested. We played. We rejuvenated. We got to experience another spec of of this beautiful, diverse planet we inhabit. As always, we come home grateful. For so much. 

Favorite pictures (less than 50 out of over 700) here. For those who like birds, click here. And for those who like flowers, click here!