Saturday, October 26, 2013

Cinque Terre & Bagni di Lucca


The Garmin led us through many treacherous hair-pin turns and ended 300 meters from our destination in Monterosso al Mare. It took us about another hour in the dark to locate the parking garage and hotel only accessible via footpath. We found the garden tiered above the third floor of the hotel and I vowed to return by daylight. 

Cinque Terre is a strip of coastline on the northwestern coast of Italy. It is becoming popular especially to the hiking crowd. We read as much as we could find on the internet and in travelogues, but still had no idea what we were getting in to. Greg and I met Hannah & Nicholas at the train station. So good to see my baby and beau.

Sunday forecast was dreary - 80% chance of rain. Being a bunch of optimists, we struck out anyway. The trail between these charming old towns built on the hill was rugged and demanding. Some rock steps. Much change in elevation...as in up. Then down. Then up again. Not nearly enough level!

Knocked out Monterosso to Vernazza in about an hour and a half. That was supposed to be the toughest but most beautiful stretch. Got some more water in  Vernazza and Greg got his daily pastry fix. On to Corniglia. At least as difficult...if not more so. We stopped to eat and enjoyed a leisurely lunch. Some of us enjoyed pesto in its home of origin. Decided to part - Hannah & Nick continued on to the last two towns via train while the Millers headed back north to collect bags.

Traveled through rain and mountains as we headed to our first agriturismo in Bagni di Lucca. We were welcomed like long lost relatives and fed a traditional Italian many-coursed meal family-style with our new friends (a family from Denmark & couple from San Paola): antipasti (liver pâté on crustini, braised mushrooms on the same, collard greens on corn fritter, salami, cheese with pepper jelly, prosciutto, olives), chopped onion/garlic/carrots on bread, mushroom crepe, pasta ragu, thinly sliced braised pork shank, fried potatoes, sliced and herbed tomatoes. And then came dessert. Creme di chocolate. Blueberry topped sponge cake. Of course there was wine. We polished off a couple of liters then wandered off to our beds.

Torrential rains sprinkled with vicious thunder & lightening lulled us in and out of sleep.

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