Thursday flew back to Athens (see a pattern developing here?) and then to Chios. These islands are all so different geographically. Corfu was rolling hills with lots of olive trees. Santorini was craggy with little green (and it is a top tourist destination? go figure). Chios is mountainous and rocky. Some places are covered with squatty pine trees and underbrush. Others have orchards hugging the hillsides. Feel like we are becoming a bit more remote, removed and immersed in the Greek environment.
Rented a car and headed south. Two favorite towns were Pyrgi with its geometric-patterned painted houses and Mesta, a mastic village. How do I describe? A town built like a fort. Stone, centuries' old feel (achieved by some parts being centuries old), narrow, arched passageways. Our greatest accomplishment was probably that we found our way out of the maze with no help!Spent the night in Vrontados, birthplace of Homer. No one in the hotel spoke English.

Friday drove to Nea Moni, a monastery dated to the 11th century. Some beautiful mosaics. Most disturbing--a case of skulls and bones from the Ottoman massacre of 1822. 600 monks and almost that many women and children were seeking refuge in this sanctuary when they were brutally slaughtered. Too much evil and pain.
Drove up the west coast. Found a secluded cove and beach in Elinta. Have basic undertone (remember, this was one scary white Alaskan body to start with) so began working on the line-less tan ;-) You would think that the water would be warm as hot as the air is. But the water is clear and cold and feels welcoming and wonderful.

I'm taking lots of video because it is hard to describe the beauty, pace and feel of this place. It is everything I hoped it would be. And we still have the better part of a week to go!
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